Kakadu National Park / Mary River Roadhouse

The very first days of our journey we spend rather afoot than on our bikes, because the Kakadu National Park offers numerous opportunities for sightseeing. In addition to the famous rock paintings of the Aboriginal there is a large biological diversity (particularly birds!). We especially like the hiking-tours in the for us strange vegetation, which on top of everything often leads us to beautiful, chilling, little pools.

For today we intend to bike the whole day. Soon we leave the border of the national park behind us. At the next roadhouse we take a break to beef up with Fish and Chips. During our meal we get into a chat with a cyclist from Belgium - Johann. He tells us that he hangs out here since two weeks and does some small works at the roadhouse for board and lodge. At first we have problems catching his drift, since the old roadhouse is rickety and is located on a dusty, totally desiccated lot. But soon we get the chance to see for ourselves, that this roadhouse is build in a small unique paradise and that it is really hard to leave.

"Finish eating. In 10 minutes we take off! Shorty celebrates his birthday. And don't forget your swimming gear!". We follow the instructions of Johann and get introduced to Shorty - a now 40 years old man - and the other residents of the roadhouse. Immediately after that we retrieve ourselves going back to the national park on the cargo area of an rusty jalopy managed by Amanda. There is plenty of beer available in an esky - a cooler in size of a fridge.

We turn off in a back road - whereby street maybe is not the fitting word. In reality it seems to be an angular, tangly, washed-out, sandy trail, which apparently hasn't seen a car since centuries. Even corrugations slope is not the best word, since the bumps are ground waves have half a meter difference in elevation, But not even these caused Amanda to reduce the speed.

The area, to which we drive or better said fly, is territory of the Aboriginal. For tourists it is strictly forbidden to enter, but the people of the roadhouse have a special permit. There is only few time to look at the beautiful landscape since the whole trip has more of a fight to keep the seat and to spill as few beer as possible. But both is nearly impossible due to a lack of grips (not to be about to think of belts). Thus after each bump, which cause rude encounters with the roof, we just try to adjust our landing, so that we do not hurt our knees or suddenly sit on somebody else. The only hope is that Amanda has enough luck to to get her act together.

We disbelief that this adventurous ride can be outdone, but what is next, exceeds all expectations. The path leads to a stunning little pond, surrounded by rocks and tropical plants. Trashier than in each film - indescribable. We use this beautiful backdrop for cooling down. After a while of floundering about in the water and sitting around, we start for another wonderful site, totally lonesome too, maybe not that beautiful, but ideal for rock diving and swimming.

Finally at dusk we set out for the roadhouse. There the party starts more than ever with beer an a big BBQ. We first need to learn how to eat the Australian way - which means, everything gets complemented with large quantities of sauce and toast bread. But it feels as if we know the people from the roadhouse since forever. Everybody who takes a rest here is heartly welcomed - no matter if street worker, trucker or camping guest.

At a late hour a special guest appears: Phil O'Brien, a well-known Australian singer, who regularly calls at the roadhouse and provides entertainment in music right away.

Since we go to bed rather late, we decide to append one more day off. The forenoon we spend with cleaning our clothes and relaxing at the pool. In the afternoon we make yet another jaunt with Johann. After one more great evening it is time to say goodbye. Even though there are a lot more gorgeous places do discover, we drive on. There are so many more highlights waiting for us. Hopefully we meet more so nice people!

written by: Birgit
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